Chairman Mao "antiques" at Dong Tai Road Market

The Dongtai Road “antique market” in Shanghai well worth a visit and is a pleasant way to pass an hour or two, but don’t go there expecting to find anything really genuine…

There is very little for sale that could be classified as actually antique, although you will find things like Chinese made cameras that are genuinely old but of dubious value – plus the stall holders give the distinct impression that they would not be seen dead with much of the stuff on display in their homes.

But the market attracts lots of tourists and the Chinese relish the opportunity to sell something to them, particularly if it’s at a grossly inflated margin which the majority of the stuff for sale is at.

Most of the stalls sell much the same thing and the irony of so many similar “antiques” being available in the same location seems to be lost on the vendors.

Care need to be taken in expressing even the merest hint of interest in one of the many things for sale as it is immediately seized on as an intention to buy and leads to a bout of “calculator based negotiation” whereby offer and counter-offer is transmitted back and forth courtesy of a calculator as very little English is spoken.

Dong Tai Road Image Gallery

How to get to Dong Tai Road

The market is just on the edge of the Xintiandi area and is a 10 minute walk from South Huangpi Road Metro station, which is on Line 1.

The SmartShanghai website is a great resource for finding your way around Shanghai and has excellent street maps so that you can find specific locations easily and a very good map of the extensive and really excellent Metro

Insect Trading - Shanghai Style...

Shanghai is a city of immense contrast and you don’t have to go much farther than the Bund area to see the most vivid of those contrasts.

Here the wide and powerful Hangpu River separates the old colonial part of Shanghai from it’s brash new counterpart Pudong.

But if you wander around Shanghai you will find many examples of the locals just doing their thing, quite oblivious to the frenetic activity that characterizes the city.

The insect market near Tibet Road (Xizang Lu), close to the Pu’xi old town, is one such example of this…

Quite why anybody would want to buy insects in the first place was lost on me initially, but it seems that many Chinese consider them as good pets, particularly crickets.

In fact there is a long history of them being used in cricket fights, so in true Chinese fashion a market place has developed to buy and trade them.

The images below are from the impromptu street market where the crickets and other insects are traded between enthusiasts, and nearby is the pet market which is worth wandering round but probably best avoided if you are an animal lover…

Shanghai’s Insect Market

Shanghai's Pudong area at sunset

I was recently back in China for 3 weeks, about 1.5 years after living there for nearly two years – it really is an interesting place, full of contradictions and very much a puzzle wrapped in an enigma.

It’s basically a huge “parallel universe” of 1.3 billion where there are many superficial indications of western culture and practices having been or being adopted, but scratch the surface and it’s all being done in a very Chinese way.

Despite the many times I have visited the country over the last 9 years, the experience actually living there and the numerous books I have read on the country and it’s turbulent history, it is very clear to me that the more I learn about China, the less I actually know…

So before the memories fade from the last 3 weeks, I thought I would record for posterity the 10 most important things I think you need to know traveling in China.

The Top Ten Things to know about traveling in China

1. Generosity - never confuse the gruff, often downright rude, way of many Chinese with their underlying generosity and some of the greatest hospitality I have personally experienced has been in China, often from people who are extremely poor!
2. Queues are for foreigners – standing in line, as most westerners automatically do, appears to be taken as a sign of inherent stupidity by many Chinese… why wait in that line when you can simply slip in at the front?
3. You are what you eat – the stuff that westerners grind up, boil and then feed to pets & animals are some of the choicest things to eat in China… Faced with attending numerous customer dinners/banquets during my times in China I have learned you have two main choices – ask what it is and risk embarrassment (pass me another slice of horse penis please…) or drink a lot and just “bring it on”. There is actually a third option whereby you can pretend you are a vegetarian, something that will completely bemuse the vast majority of Chinese!
4. A little Mandarin goes a long way – Mandarin is the standard language in China, but it is not universal and there are hundreds of local dialects. English speaking people are quite rare away from the city centers and usually non-existent most other places, so a little basic Mandarin could just save your day…
5. Traffic Options - traffic rules do not seem to apply anywhere in China, so I think options is the right description. For example last minute swerves across multiple lanes of traffic to avoid a missed turn-off, or reversing back down an on-ramp (hazard warning lights thoughtfully activated) seem perfectly normal and rationale behavior for China’s new generation of drivers.
6. You will pay more - foreigners are seen as completely fair-game to most Chinese and the logic seems to be that you must be rich to be there, so you can clearly afford to pay a little more and of course it’s nothing personal!
7. Fashionistas - in the downtown areas of major cities you will see many western brand stores and well-dressed Chinese, but they are grossly outnumbered by other Chinese who seem to consider rolling up both their trousers and shirts to reveal  socks & shoes and nicely rounded rice-bellies as a very “summer thing” to do. In Shanghai for example, arguably China’s most fashion-conscious city, it is quite normal to walk around in your pajamas…
8. The money gene – I am convinced that Chinese have an extra gene that westerners do not possess and on it is a $ sign. Basically they love to make money, know how to do it very well and generally do whatever it takes to succeed.
9. Millisecond baggage – a millisecond is the time delay between the plane stopping and all the Chinese on it  simultaneously trying to get their bags down from the overhead lockers and jostle for position in the aisle. Similarly, there seems to be a burning desire to remove their bags from the luggage carousel and the fact that you have been waiting patiently does not seem to matter as you are shoved out of the way when their bag does arrive…
10. Pedestrian crossings - widely available in the cities, but under no circumstances assume that there is a remote chance of road users stopping to let you cross!

The city is largely as I remember it, but it seems nobody remembers me!

What has changed though is the utter chaos around all the roadworks in preparation for the 2010 World Expo and in particular the area around the famous Bund is now looking really good and I spent a couple of hours wandering round. Just across the road from one of the most impressive buildings is a new bull statue created by the same guy who did the one in Wall Street – the Sicilian artist Arturo Di Modica.

Shanghai's Charging Bull Statue at the Bund

It really is an imposing piece of art and I stopped to take a photo or two, and when I had finished I was approached by a pleasant Chinese guy who was with his wife and asked me to take a photo of them with the Bund as a backdrop. She smiled demurely at me from underneath her sun parasol and of course I said yes.

That lead to me posing with him while she took a picture of the two new best friends against the same backdrop. The guy spoke excellent English, which I complimented him on in the spirit of this new found cross-cultural friendship and the world was good…

As I attempted to move on he engaged me more deeply and I smelled a rat when he asked if I wanted to join them at this special place they knew for Chinese tea, which all seemed a bit strange seeing as he told me they had just arrived from Xi’an in central China on a special holiday!

I politely declined and explained that I was meeting a friend for lunch – a complete lie, but a man has to do what a man has to do!

So I got away but noticed that an unsuspecting American tourist had replaced me as the professional portrait photographer when I checked from a safe distance. Unfortunately he went mildly like a lamb to slaughter and was happily lead off with his new best friends.

Off for tea they go....

No idea where they went but I suspect that he is no worse off physically, but financially he is probably a bit poorer having been duped in to buying some fake art or antique…

Saturday at Ikea

When I moved to Shanghai on an 18 month work assignment in early 2008, I rented a furnished apartment in the Xintiandi area.

I soon realized that I needed to get some additional stuff and decided that the big new Ikea near the Indoor Stadium would have what I required.

So I went there one Saturday to do some shopping.

I was very surprised to see that in China, well at least in Shanghai anyway, a visit to Ikea appears to be more of a social event and a day out, rather than a trip to the shops…

Relaxing with friends....

People seemed to be enamored with the “Ikea ambiance” and were settled in for the day – relaxing on the various lounge settings as if they were at home.

I tried my best to sneak some photos so that I would be able to illustrate this post, but it was not easy as they clearly did not like being disturbed.

I felt somewhat like a dinner party guest who had overstayed his welcome!

Then I thought that if this was what it was like in the lounge furniture & fittings area, what was happening round in the bedroom furniture section….

I'm worn out....

Sure enough, people were stretched out half asleep on the beds and several looked like they were having a nice nap, oblivious to the throngs of people passing by.

I did my best to sneak some shots of the sleepers, but my paparazzi skills are not what they should be and I failed miserably…

I promise to try harder next time!

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Don

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of mine, Scott Breeding, out from our company’s headquarters in the USA. Scott is quite a character – well read & traveled with a real passion for what he does and a seemingly endless stream of great one-liners. It was a great three weeks and we got a lot done, but my liver was greatly relieved when he finally left….

I showed Scott how to ride the Shanghai Metro (http://www.exploreshanghai.com/metro/) and he used it almost daily to get about – as I do myself. However in his second week he witnessed something special which motivated him to compose the following, which I thought I should share:

scott-breeding1“I’ve been in Asia about a month, and in here in China for almost 10 days.  Since I got to Shanghai, everyday I ride the subway to work.  Because of the unbelievable traffic, at rush hour the train is much faster than a taxi…cost makes no difference…train cost about a buck, the taxi ride about 10.  The train takes about an hour, but cabs take twice as long.  I have to change lines half way there which is an adventure.  I’m usually the only foreigner on the train, but nobody bothers me.
Almost nobody speaks any English at all.  Most ignore me completely, but some of the older passengers stare…like I’m from another world.  I read the China Daily and carefully try to appear completely absorbed in the odd ways the official media spins the news.  It’s always very quiet…the universal big city attitude of studied indifference.  No joking, no music…seemingly very civil.   But tonight on the way home, I witnessed one of the most disturbing events I’ve ever seen.
First, people in Shanghai dress very well..much more stylishly than a comparable city in the US.  The trains are all new, fast and hyper clean…no graffiti anywhere.  Very few cops anywhere to be seen, although crime is not uncommon.   Pickpockets and grab-and-run purse snatchers are out there…not as bad as Rio, but still out there if you’re not careful.  Service in the hotels for Westerners is barely just

ok…even though they are trying really hard.

The people are just naturally aggressive and not at all gracious…very used to fighting for everything they have.  The guttural, tonal language is amazing to listen to…very odd the way speakers have to modulate the volume and pitch to make the words have their intended meaning.  It’s facinatin

g how a Chinese speaker can talk so mildly to me in English but take on a completely different personality when they start speaking Chinese to one another.

Tonight the train was crowded…not insanely so, as some nights are…just packed.  We pull into one of the two dozens stops on the way home, and a  woman just next to wear I’m standing gets up from her seat to get off the train.  Two young well dressed professional women rush for the prize.  This is the usual scene…you don’t ever want to get between a Chinese subway rider and an empty seat.  Oneelbows the other and slides quickly into the seat, but the other doesn’t like losing out.  She starts to speak harshly (relatively) to the other woman, who then yells back.  The still standing women then attacks the other…I mean hair pulling, hitting, kicking…the other viciously fights back.  This is pretty odd, but it gets weirder.  Nobody does anything…the woman sitting next to the battle just watches. Nobody even says anything…not a word.  The car is completely quiet except for the heavy breathing and occasional bitter words from the combatants.

And it goes on…3 or 4 minutes to the next stop…fighting the whole way.  They’re getting tired and winded…they end up in a clinch, panting.  Hands full of hair…getting in a blow when they can.  Next stop…doors open, people get on and off….doors close we’re speeding up and they’re still fighting.  A little rested now, the standing girl finally able to wound the other who’s now bleeding form a scratch on her face.  Nobody says anything…the battle continues.  We slow for the next station…doors open, close…the train speeds up and still they fight in the little space they have…most fellow passengers watch impassively, the others ignore them.

Finally…finally…the train stops and the still standing woman breaks from the clutch and staggers off the train.  The other leaps up and goes to the door to shout after her.  Here’s the odd thing…nobody takes her seat.
I want to go home.”

When I first came to China on business about 6 years ago, like most first-timers, I was somewhat startled by what is eaten by the Chinese…. it seemed that anything & everything could go into the enormous variety of food dishes available here.

I later learned that there is a local saying that the Chinese eat anything with legs on, except the tables & chairs…

I met up with a friend the other night in Beijing and over dinner we ended up discussing the Chinese preferences in their meat, fish & poultry dishes and it became very clear that what would end up in petfood in the west is considered by many here to be the very best parts of the meat.

To prove this to me, the next day he took me to the eastern suburbs market - a huge sprawling area where it appears to be possible to buy everything that is available in China…. but we were not looking for army surplus boots or pots & pans, the meat & fish area was our designated target.

Well… I can tell you that it’s not a place for the faint hearted or vegans!

Literally every part of a pig, sheep, cow or bull seems to be available and my visit started with an encounter with the pork area where I was confronted with a very discerning shopper selecting a large quantity of pig’s intestines.

A little further down the aisle was the not so little piggy who went to market and never came back…

Apparently roast pig’s head was very popular a few years ago and there were a number of restaurants in Beijing that specialized in serving it.

Before moving on my friend tastefully positioned another nearby pig’s head so that I could take a posthumous portrait.

Prior to entering the beef area I paused to admire a fine collection of pig’s tongues – another highly sought after delicacy.

The beef area had a range of meat cuts and cow & bull organs and appendages, the first to catch my eye being a pleasing array of freshly skinned tails.

The next culinary ingredient surprise was the bull’s penis area….

I am assured that a soup made from this delicacy is not only delicious but just the job for a flagging male libido and, in the rare event that it did not do the trick, fried or grilled bull’s penis is guaranteed!

As you can see the bull’s penis specialist was delighted to show me his selection….

From the beef area we entered the lamb & mutton area and were greeted by a brace of sheep’s heads complete with their full compliment of brain matter….

Next was the poultry area and the interesting fact that chicken feet are the more highly prized part of a chicken and fetch a much higher price than the breast or leg.

This is apparently  because most Chinese believe the taste of the feet is much better than the rest of the chicken and there is a strong belief amongst Chinese women that eating chicken feet will make their skin smoother & nicer!

However, I have since been corrected (thanks Eileen…) that it’s a delicacy because of the way it’s cooked, with the texture working well with chilli black bean sauce. 

The fish market area has  a large array of fresh & sea-water fish and it was very interesting to see how the fish-heads are more highly sought after than the fish bodies and apparently fetch a 40% premium.

There was an unusual assortment of fish internal parts that I neither recognised or, at that point suffering from organ & appendage overload, cared to ask about….

 The cold weather has brought out a new variant of the well known Shanghai pajama – a heavy duty, lightly quilted winter version! I was quite taken aback when I had my first sighting while wandering around the old part of the town near where I live.

I was even more surprised when I realized that the winter version could also be used as part of a tag team when popping out for some groceries from the market!

So you can imagine my amazement when later the same day I saw a very dapper individual using a very nice pair of tartan blue winter pajamas as part of his routine to engage with the opposite sex!

And I was simply speechless when it appeared to work!

Maybe I should buy a pair….or two!

Every time I get in a cab in Sydney I get an irrestable urge to talk to this new breed of driver, because they nearly always have a story to tell and it’s often about how they made the journey from their home country to Australia. It always impresses me how they have just got on with what they had to do in the face of often daunting challenges.

In Shanghai however, the luxury of a conversation is not one that I have been able to enjoy because of my inability to speak Mandarin…. so I have taken to reflecting on the lot of the city’s taxi drivers as we weave through the streets, swapping lanes with gay abandon! 

First of all it has to be said that it’s a tough gig and certainly not for the feint at heart – driving in Shanghai (or anywhere else in China for that matter) is more of a blood sport than a pastime and my first journeys in the standard VW Santana taxi were spent worrying whether I would have all my limbs at the end of the journey.

However, not only do Shanghai’s taxi drivers take all this in their stride, they are also generally very helpful and also very trustworthy – twice I have left my phone in the taxi and got it back by having somebody call the taxi company to patch us through to the driver.

That said, it would appear there is more than just the inherent danger of driving the roads of Shanghai associated with being a taxi driver, because all the taxis have a protective plexiglass shield around the driver and a chrome guard rail. All of which combines to give the cramped interior of the VW Santana a less than homely feel about it….

The thing that really impresses me about Shanghai taxis, is that you can pay for your fare with your metro pass.

Shanghai’s metro is first class and I use it most of the time, but if where I am going is not on a metro line then it’s time to brave the traffic and get a taxi. The same electronic pass that is used in the metro can be used in every taxi in Shanghai – you simply put your pass on top of the dashboard meter and the fare is automatically deducted.

How easy is that!

Shanghai is without doubt the most dynamic & cosmopolitan city in China. Its exotic reputation as the “pearl of the orient”, was gained in 19th century, when at one point there were over 60,000 foreign residents living there.  It was known as a place to get rich quickly and was built on the back of the opium, silk and tea trade, but it had a dark side of slavery, poverty and diabolic working conditions for the “have-nots” which led to the formation of the communist party in a house literally located just down the road from where I rent an apartment. Today Shanghai is the epitome of modern China – bustling & busy, full of confidence and hell bent on making money.

So what is it with the pajamas?

Pajamas appear to be to the people of Shanghai what tracky-dacks are to Aussies, shell-suits & football shirts are to Brits and socks AND sandals are to Germans…. Basically a badge of honor worn in the face of all normal conventions of style, taste and decency!

I must be honest and state that there is a hospital just down the road from where I live and so I see more than my fair share of pajama clad perambulators, but other expats I have discussed this phenomenon with confirm it is quite normal to see their neighbors strolling about in the street in their pajamas. This is particularly so at the weekend where the slept in pajama seems to be the leisure wear of choice amongst the Shanghai cognoscenti!